Before you tuck the flashing under the shingles, you will need to apply outdoor waterproof silicone to the underside of the flashing. You can then apply a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the flashing once it is in place.
Once everything is in place, you can start assembling the chimney pipe sections. Rock-Vent Class A chimney pipe requires 3 screws to connect multiple sections of the chimney pipe together. You will need to connect the universal male adapter to the first section of the chimney pipe. The male end of the universal adapter will extend through the ceiling support box so you are able to connect the single or double wall stove pipe to the chimney pipe.
If the chimney pipe is really long or is going through multiple levels of the home, it may be best to start at the ceiling support box, work your way up and finish the installation though the roof flashing. It is important to stabilize the chimney pipe above the ceiling support box with wall standoffs for long runs of chimney pipe. You will need to install a wall standoff every 8 ft. The chimney pipe must be a minimum of 3 ft. The chimney height above the roof will be dictated by the pitch of the roof and the lateral distance from where the chimney pipe is going to penetrate the roof in relation to the peak.
If the chimney pipe is coming through the peak of the roof, it will need to be a minimum 3 ft. If the pipe is going to penetrate the roof on the low side by the eave, you will need to have the pipe extend higher above the roof.
To calculate, multiply the roof pitch by the lateral distance from the peak of the roof. The top 40 in. The pipe needs to also be 2 ft. So another 24 in. A roof brace kit will be required to stabilize the pipe if the chimney pipe is 5 ft. The roof brace kit is a band that has adjustable poles which anchor to the roof deck to stabilize the pipe. The last step above the roof will be installing the storm collar and the chimney rain cap.
The storm collar is what wraps around the pipe and sits over the flashing to seal off where the pipe comes through the top of the roof flashing. Most storm collars have a hose clamp mechanism to ensure the storm collar is tight around the pipe. Other storm collars have a tab that you bend around to lock the storm collar on. Once the storm collar is in place, you will need to put a bead of high temp silicone around the pipe and the storm collar to ensure the storm collar is water tight.
Lastly, place the rain cap on the top of the pipe. The rain cap will be clamped around the outside of the chimney pipe. Now that the chimney pipe is installed, the next step is to connect the chimney pipe to the stove using a single wall or double wall black stove pipe.
Your choice on which to use is going to be based on the clearance the stove pipe will have to combustible material.
Single wall stove pipe requires an 18 in. Double wall stove pipe requires a 6 in. If you used a heat shield to get the stove closer to a wall, a double wall stove pipe would likely be required.
If the stove is far away from a wall, then you could use a single wall pipe. Single and double wall pipes have similar installations. The male pipe ends of the stove pipe should always point down or towards the stove.
Telescoping stove pipes make the installation of the stove pipe a breeze and do not require any cutting. In some cases the wood stove will not be sitting directly under the ceiling support box. In this event, you will need offsetting elbows to shift the pipe to the chimney support box. If you are installing an older stove without any type of draft control, it would be wise to install a damper on the stove pipe. The damper will regulate the draft and extend the burn time of the wood.
A single wall damper installs in the stove pipe by drilling two holes in the pipe. Then you place the damper flap inside the pipe and run the damper rod through the holes on the pipe and the damper flap to lock it in place. A double wall stove pipe damper will come pre-assembled and is installed as a section of stove pipe. No — you cannot use stovepipe through the window or roof!
The diagram above shows the three most common installation types. Type 1 would be common in any single story construction. Regular black stove pipe is run upwards from the stove and connects with the Insulated Chimney at a special support box located immediately below the ceiling level.
Insulated chimney is then stacked up until the required height is obtained. All chimneys must extend a minimum of 3 feet above the roof surface and 2 feet higher than any part of the building within 10 feet. If desired, this chimney could be boxed in with wood framing and stuccoed or sided to match the home. Type 3 is similar to type 1 in that it is a single story installation, but different components are needed due to the slanted ceiling. In this case, the pipe is supported by a bracket at the roof level, and Insulated Chimney Pipe hangs down partially into the room to connect to the interior black stovepipe.
The details as to the building of masonry chimneys are beyond the scope of this document, however there are a few safety and performance issue to keep in mind. The sad truth is that some masons spent so many years building low-temperature chimneys for oil burners, gas burners and fireplaces that the art of proper chimney construction has become almost lost. These deficiencies can be addressed during new construction by a competent mason, and a properly designed and built masonry chimney is a work of art that can last for generations.
An existing but deficient masonry chimney can often be brought up to spec by installing a UL approved stainless steel liner system. This provides an extra margin of safety as well as improves draft and simplifies cleaning. Not so fast — some thought processes are required here. Lets start with the fireplace. If they were real smart, they fit some old fiberglass insulation around it so as to stop too much room air from escaping up the chimney made the stove draft stronger too.
Chimney professionals soon saw that there were a lot of problems with this setup. The stoves drafted poorly, created lots of creosote and the more-than-occasional chimney fires!
As a result of these problems, the Hearth Industry and the National Fire Protection Association put together a set of more modern guidelines. First, determine if you have a masonry fireplace and chimney.
If you have a metal zero clearance fireplace and metal chimney, your options are very limited. Check with your local Hearth Retailer — and confirm in the installation manual or manufacturers literature. Houses with unused chimneys tend to be older homes, as these structures were often built with multiple chimneys for heating, cooking, etc. Often, these older chimneys are not safe to use without some upgrading. They can be lined with approved stainless steel pipe or restored with special masonry processes ask your chimney sweep.
Pay special attention to the wall pass-through, which is the area where your stove pipe will connect to your chimney. Any wood or combustible material in this are must be cut back to comply with building codes. Special insulated sleeves are available to accomplish this transition.
As previously mentioned, it is not to be used for passing through Walls, Floors or Ceilings. The exterior is comprised of brick or stone for a finished look and seals the chimney from the elements.
Topping off the masonry chimney is a crown that seals the top from the weather. A wood burner can be connected to an existing masonry chimney if the size of the flue meets the requirements of the stove.
A chimney insert may be an option, but in either case, the chimney should be inspected by a chimney professional. A double-wall or triple-wall chimney system is an option if the chimney will be installed straight up and through the roof.
Both systems require a ceiling support box when installing the system through the ceiling. A single wall pipe connects the stove to the ceiling. From the ceiling to the roof requires double or triple wall pipe. Roof flashing has to be used to shed water of the roof. Then the chimney pipe should extend at least three feet above the peak of the roof. A cap need to be installed on the top to keep birds out of the warm chimney and sparks from leaving the chimney when burning.
Purchase these parts and pieces as required. Just plan ahead and have what is needed when installing. The route of the chimney should be thoughtfully planned out.
The proper clearance to any combustible surfaces should be followed. Selecting the location of the outdoor stove is probably the most important piece of a smooth installation. Here are the factors to consider. Since you will be burning a much larger amount of wood, place the stove near the location of your wood supply. Moving and stacking wood two or three times can be tedious and back-breaking unless it is done with a front loader.
You will also be lading the stove times a day. Think this one through carefully! The supply and return water lines will need to be buried. You do not want to cross: septic system pipes, power lines, water supply lines, or drain lines.
All these should be avoided if possible or moved if necessary. The supply and return lines will generally be connected to a heating exchanger that will be installed in your existing furnace. The furnace will then be used as an air handler. This passes cool air return over the heat exchanger providing warm air to be distributed to the home.
Make sure the location of the pathway for the supply and return water pipes has open run to the existing furnace. Some homes have existing hot water heat that the system can be connected to. This would be a more efficient system but would also require significant planning in the run of piping from the stove to the existing water pipe system.
Before you install a wood burning stove, there are many things to consider. Some of these items were touched on in the article but really need a separate line to make sure you have spent some time thinking about.
These are items I have learned over time from practical experience and mistakes I have made. What is your wood supply? Do you have a long term supply of wood such as your own woods or family with a woods. The drawback and this has happened to me is it may not last forever. That woods could be sold or turned into farmland. Make sure you have options.
Even a source from a tree trimmer for a short term fix if your supply dries up. Where do you plan on storing the wood? Some communities do not allow the large trucks to deliver or large piles of wood they do draw varmints. Make sure you have access to and permission for wood storage. If you plan on supplying your own wood, do you have a vehicle or trailer that is capable of hauling the heavy loads? T truck will get banged up in the woods.
Dents in the bed and scratches in the side panels.
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